The Vehicle, challenges experienced and overland tips

The Vehicle

Before

Odometer - before 231377km
Odometer – before
231377km

Our beloved 1993 3L (petrol) V6 Nissan Sani is a South African derivative of the D21 Nissan Hardbody/ Patrol which converted a double cab into a spacious 5 door station wagon. It has the following extras:

  • 60L long range petrol tank providing a total fuel capacity of 150L
  • Winch
  • Aluminium Roof Rack
  • Custom rear bumper incorporating high lift jack points and spare wheel mount
  • Front high lift jack points
  • 2nd Spare Wheel
  • Removable 4 drawer rack which includes a fridge/ freezer slide tray
  • 100L water tank
The front
The front
The Rear
The Rear
Drawer system
Drawer system
Storage system viewed from front
Storage system viewed from front

The following pictures attempt to show  how the vehicle was packed.

Roof Rack top
Roof Rack top

The solar panels were an addition picked up in Tanzania to supplement the 2nd battery charging systems which previously relied on the vehicle alternator. It was useful when the vehicle standing still a a few days. In practice 70W is not sufficient and the standard vehicle alternator should probably be upgraded. Of greater importance is the thickness of the wiring and the quality of any solder joints. When your 12 VDC  is in short supply, you don’t want it wasted in these areas!

The Cobb is a small and very efficient kettle braai (barbeque) fueled by 8 or 10 pieces of charcoal. It is used as an oven for roasting and baking, (nothing better than a roast chicken and potatoes or scones and jam in the wild!). In the sundries box I carried a selection of tie wraps, adhesives, nuts, bolts, screws, pop-rivets, pipes, batteries, wheel bearing grease, hand cleaner, electrical goodies, brake fluid…..

Cobb and Sundries Box
Cobb and Sundries Box

The portable braai we used is manufactured bu Poitjieking.com. It is a round stainless steel braai with folding legs and is ideal for 2 people when there are no open fire facilities. We took an empty Wolfepack/ Ammo Box/ Box (what ever you want to call it) to carry charcoal bought along the way.

Portable Braai and Charcoal box
Portable Braai and Charcoal box

Although the ground sheet was the subject of some discussion before we left as it could have been a space waster, however it did prove useful in dusty, grassy and wet conditions. We used it in most camps. A good quality air compressor is an essential companion. Not only for tyre repairs but predominantly because a) your need to adjust tyre pressures to suit the terrain and b) because compressed air is not generally available (nor is it very often free!). A good quality tyre pressure gauge is also essential since gauges are either non-existent or hopelessly unreliable.

Under the ground sheet and compressor, we stored our portable shower, collapsible braai grid, collapsible  dustbin and frying pan. The latter two were hardly used and we would not take the again. The braai grid was used when ever we had an open fire which was quite frequent.

Braai grid, frying pan, collapsible dustbin
Braai grid, frying pan, collapsible dustbin
The Shower
The Shower
The shower assembled
The shower assembled

The off-road recover kit is self explanatory and essential. We used some of the kit with he winch to help someone erect a solar panel installation however, if we did not have it, we would have needed it for recovery I am sure.

Off Road Recovery kit
Off Road Recovery kit
Roof Rack right
Roof Rack right
Roof Rack left
Roof Rack left

The fire extinguisher bracket is empty because the extinguisher fell out on the road from South to North Luangwa in Zambia (despite being secured which bungy chord in addition to the mounting bracket. The new extinguisher (compulsory in most African countries) we bought was stored under the wooden floor.

Roof Rack rear
Roof Rack rear

North of South Africa, the fittings for LP Gas cylinders differ from ours and thus refilling cylinders becomes a challenge. We took enough to last the 4 months. The steel trunk held a good selection of general purpose tools, hand drills, bottle jack, engine oil (we found multi grade oil to be a scarce commodity). Spares were limited to oil and fuel filter, light bulbs, fuses, belts, tyre repair kit (including tyre levers and two inner tubes). Bicycle inner tubes come in very handy when cut into long strips for strapping and binding – they can even be used to temporarily bind a leaking water or fuel pipe!

The 20L HTH Pool Chlorine bucket proved to be a most efficient washing machine for clothing – add dirty clothes, soap powder and water; strap to the roof rack and drive for  4 – 6 hours; empty, rinse and hang up to dry. It also doubled as a receptacle for washing daily dishes as there were very few formal facilities.

We never needed the extra fuel but there were times when we were glad it was there just in case!

Wooden Floor replacing the rear seats
Wooden Floor replacing the rear seats

Most of our day to day requirements were accommodated in the back of the vehicle – our clothing, chairs, bedding , PC, camera equipment etc. We mostly used the fridge as a freezer and rotated freezer blocks through the cooler box in the back.

Behind front seats from left
Behind front seats from left
Behind front seats from right
Behind front seats from right
Looking back from the front seat
Looking back from the front seat
External Power Supplies
External Power Supplies
Internal Power Supplies
Internal Power Supplies
Internal Power Supplies
Internal Power Supplies

In most cases, local water could be used for boiling and cooking. We took along an MSR filter and used it when our water tank was a bit low and bottle water was scarce. We were able to fill the tank a couple of times with safe water and on occasions topped it up with bottled water.

The second battery is coupled to and charged by the vehicle alternator via a solenoid which isolates the main and second batteries when the engine os not running. The inverter was adequate for charging the PC, camera batteries and a few other 220V chargables. Cigarette lighter to USB converters kept cell phones and other USB devices charged. Whenever we had access to external mains electricity we were able to use the external supply and not the inverter. The battery charger is configured and connected to charge the second battery whenever external mains is available.

2nd Battery
2nd Battery

After

Odometer - after 247479km
Odometer – after
247479km
Country Flag Stickers
Country Flag Stickers

We added the relevant flag as we entered each country. These stickers proved to be a fantastic conversation piece, often distracting officials who could otherwise be looking to cause trouble, but also facilitated many conversations with the local people. Many overlanders carry these or other custom made decals describing their trip.

The Challenges

On the face of it, we had very few issues (especially compared to many other overlanders we came across):

  • Cracked fuel tank – This happened early in the trip in Zimbabwe. We had the tank removed 4 times in an attempt to repair it – all attempts were unsuccessful. We elected to simply continue with a dripping tank. This mishap was suspension related as we bottomed-out and knocked the bottom of the tank under conditions when it should not have happened.
  • Cracked windscreen – repaired by a ‘windscreen repair man’ on the side of the road in Zambia using a small battery powered drill an d superglue. Not the prettiest, definitely not invisible, but it stopped the crack from progressing.
  • I had an additional blade installed in the rear leaf spring packs to try to firm up the rear suspension. I am of the opinion that this was achieved despite the fact that the blades were salvaged from some unknown vehicle and ‘cut to size’!
  • Broken shock mounting on front right wish-bone. This happened in Northern Zambia as a consequence of bad roads (and perhaps some inexperienced driving at that stage in in trip!). This was welded back in place at a lodge Kapishia Hot Springs.
  • Broken exhaust bracket resulted in broken exhaust pipe. Repaired in a small town in northern Uganda.
  • The fridge sliding tray locking bracket sheared. We used a wooden wedge in combination with a sleeping bag to keep the fridge in place when mobile.

    Fridge Slide failure
    Fridge Slide failure
  • The spare wheel locking pin sheared. Just nuisance value.
Spare Wheel Locking pin failure
Spare Wheel Locking pin failure
  • Front brakes – front left disc cracked – likely to be a consequence of heavy and frequent braking coupled with river crossings in Western Tanzania. I identified this in Southern Uganda when investigating why front wheel hub lockers were so tight when engaging 4X4. I had to strip, clean and re-grease these – probably also due to over-heating. Front wheel bearings should signs of play at this point.
  • We developed a leaking water pipe in a very inaccessible spot. Fortunately it remained manageable until we reached Nairobi.
  • In Nairobi at Jungle Junction the following work was done:
  1. Water pipe was replaced (required removal of radiator and timing chain cover!)
  2. Oil and filters change (air cleaner was blown out as replacement was not available)
  3. New front brake discs and pads – front and rear wheel bearings cleaned, checked and re-greased
  4. Rear right axle oil seal replaced
  5. Fan belt idler pulley replaced
  6. Cooling system flushed
  7. Brake fluid flushed and replaced
  8. Steering damper replaced (steering had become quite erratic)
  9. Shock Absorber bushes replaced
  10. Numerous steering and suspension bolts and nuts tightened
  • Front left inner CV boot split. Fabricated plastic bag boot is still intact (and not leaking grease) on return.
  • A number of ball joint sealing rubbers have split of broken – the ball joints will need to be replaced.

There is generally not much that the bush mechanics cannot do or overcome on the side of the road – we have seen engines and diffs stripped and repaired in the dust on the side of the road. They keep ordinary sedans running on these horrific roads so the mechanical problems encountered by genuine off road vehicles don’t often pose a challenge. However, such repairs should be considered temporary and should be re-done properly when ever it is possible.

Tips

Suspension, suspension, suspension…..The biggest threat to the vehicle on such a trip up north is suspension. What we have learnt is that most people behind the counters of 4X4 fitment centres who are advising you on such things as suspension have never experienced such a trip and the road conditions encountered. I was ‘advised’ concerning my Old Man Emu suspension fitted just before we left – my suspension was hopelessly under-rated. My shiny yellow OME front shocks are now black!  My leaf spring packs on my empty vehicle are flat – even with an extra blade.

Regularly check the tightness of the wheel nuts.

Lower tyre pressure on long heavily corrugated roads – this makes for a smoother ride and provides some ‘cushioning’ for the shocks and suspension.

Don’t drive at high speed on heavily corrugated roads for more than 20 – 30 mins without stopping for a break. Both you and your shocks need it!

Stick to speed limits where ever possible; be as polite and patronising at police road blocks as possible; try to avoid night driving; don’t plan for more than 200 – 300 km’s a day; ask frequently about road conditions ahead.

Cell phone coverage is generally very good. Local sim cards are easy to obtain and airtime (connectivity) and data is widely obtainable. Take an extra cell phone, load it with a local sim, configure it as a mobile hot spot and link your wireless devices to it – Whatsapp and internet are then available whenever the signal is sufficient (which is often).

Visa and Mastercard Autobanks are widely available. Prices are often quoted in USD and converted to local currency at the going rate. We will try to give some indication of expenses in a followup blog for those interested, but be advised that north of our borders is expensive!

Spares

We needed very little in the way of spares but from our experience and listening to other peoples experience, I would recommend:

  • Wheel bearings
  • Fan and accessory belts
  • Airfilter
  • Bulbs and fuses
  • Suspension bushes – better still, replace them before leaving
  • Start with new shocks or take spares
  • Front disc pads (ours lasted 8000km on the Western Tanzanian and Ugandan roads)
  • Break fluid
  • Power Steering fluid
  • Wheel bearing grease
  • Q20/ WD40
  • Cable ties, bungies, nylon rope and duct tape cover a multitude of sins

The Route

A separate journal – The Route So Far – was updated regularly but it seems that updates were not publicised. Here is the detailed 16000km route that we followed.

Route 23 May - 30 September
Route 23 May – 30 September
Route in Malawi
Route in Malawi
Route through Mozambique & Zimbabwe
Route through Mozambique & Zimbabwe
Route in Eastern Tanzania
Route in Eastern Tanzania
Route in Uganda
Route in Uganda
Route in Kenya
Route in Kenya
Zimbabwe
Zimbabwe
Zambia
Zambia
Tanzania
Tanzania
Rwanda
Rwanda
RSA
RSA

Lake Malawi- naked men and such like things

In 1974 Denise and her family came to Lake Malawi on a week holiday so after packing up at Cool Runnings we went in search of the old colonial hotel that was where they had stayed. We found it! It’s called Sunbird Livingstonia hotel and some things were the same whilst others were different which you would expect after 41 years.

Livingstonia Hotel
Livingstonia Hotel

We had coffee there and enjoyed chatting to the one waiter who remembered the history of the place. It has a lovely campsite and is on secluded beach so it was tempting to stay there. One of the features of Lake Malawi is how many people, mainly men use it for bathing, and lo and behold in front of the campsite were the usual suspects bathing, men without a stitch of clothing on so we moved on…..

We went to Cape Maclear and en route visited the Mua Mission which is just off the road. A really interesting place which tells the history of the Catholic Church in the area as well as documenting the local history.

Mua Mission
Mua Mission
Mua Mission
Mua Mission
Mua Mission
Mua Mission

There are two rooms dedicated to cultural information about the most prominent tribes of Malawi beautifully done by one of the Catholic priests. Really amazing artist and a surprisingly well done with a magnificent sculpture shop with unusual wooden art.

There were sections on the way to Cape Maclear that were part of the national park which showed how magnificent the bush must have been in this area. There are large tracts of land that are barren, where all the trees have been cut down and I mean ALL, for human use, so it was good to see some land still intact.

We camped at a place called Chembe Eagle’s Nest, lovely little place situated in a nook of the lake surrounded by villages.

Chembe campsite
Chembe campsite
Chembe campsite
Chembe campsite

There were the inevitable men and boys bathing on the lake either side of the lodge so we wondered where the women’s bathing area was!

Chembe Village
Chembe Village
Chembe Beach
Chembe Beach

It was a lovely place to chill and relax, enjoy swimming and the scenery. The camp site supported a large variety of lizard life from 1m+ monitors to little geckos.

Lizards galore
Lizards galore
Lizards galore
Lizards galore
Monitor Lizard
Monitor Lizard
Monitor Lizard
Monitor Lizard

We managed to watch the opening ceremony to the Rugby World Cup here. We also had a wonderful sunset cruise which also gave us a good view of the lake shore.

Chembe sunset
Chembe sunset
Chembe sunset
Chembe sunset
Chembe sunset
Chembe sunset

Then to make us feel quite at home…. load shedding! We were serenaded with the sound of generator power for most of one day……..

Leaving the lake we headed south to the Zomba plateau which is very beautiful and chilly. We stopped along the road for a take-away a la East Africa (this time just slap (soggy) chips).

Take-away chips
Take-away chips

Zomba had been the colonial capital of Malawi at some stage so the town is quite structured. The main road is under construction so we got a scenic detour as we moved towards the plateau. We stayed in a hotel at the top which was hosting a couple of Aid Organizations conferences. It was very civilized and even had tea and scones on the menu. We went for a walk and had to fend off numerous offers for tour guides.

Zomba Scenes
Zomba Scenes
Zomba Scenes
Zomba Scenes
Zomba Scenes
Zomba Scenes

We found a trout farm which is no longer operational although a ‘caretaker’ did offer to let us camp there. We did joke about putting in an offer for the place.

Leaving Malawi signified that we were nearing our journeys end. The border post into Mozambique at Dedza was painless and quick. We planned to overnight in Tete then straight through to Nyamapanda in Zimbabwe. The scenery once into Mozambique was magnificent and very beautiful. Tete city was surprisingly large and extensive. We found some accommodation on the Zambezi River which consisted of small en-suite log cabins and a very small restaurant at the water’s edge. Lo and behold it seemed that we had once again stumbled upon the communal bath/ wash area. This time large volumes of topless women were doing their washing in front of the lodge whilst the men bathed amongst frolicking children slightly down stream. Modesty is clearly not a plentiful commodity in this part of the world.

The next day saw us cross the border back into Zimbabwe. We traveled south west through Mutoko and Murewa, Alan’s old stomping ground when he was in the army and took a bit of time to reminisce.

Mutoko Zimbabwe Scenes
Mutoko Zimbabwe Scenes
Mutoko Zimbabwe Scenes
Mutoko Zimbabwe Scenes
Mutoko Zimbabwe Scenes
Mutoko Zimbabwe Scenes

We arrived at Denise’s brother Bill and his wife Jill’s home in Marondera mid-afternoon. Bill and Jill work at Peterhouse Boy’s and Girl’s school respectively and live on the girl’s school property. The school is situated on a large tract of land filled with Msasa trees and balancing rocks and incorporates a small conservation area called Gosho Park that is home to some Kudu, Impala, Giraffe and Eland as well as some striking scenery.

Msasas and balancing rocks
Msasa trees and balancing rocks
Balancing Rocks
Balancing Rocks

We enjoyed a sunset braai one evening in Gosho.

Gosho Braai
Gosho Braai
With Bill and Jill
With Bill and Jill
Zim Sunset
Zim Sunset

We also joined a sunset/ moonrise gathering with some other Peterhouse staff on the top of granite balancing rock outcrop – this on the evening of the blood moon eclipse which we later enjoyed from Bill and Jill’s garden from 03H45 the next morning.

Gosho sunset
Gosho sunset
Super Moon Sunrise
Super Moonrise

Time had eventually caught up with us. Vehicle and Medical Travel insurance was valid until 30th September. Also, Mike and Kerry our son and daughter in-law were due to move into their first home on the 3rd October – a fairly noteworthy and momentous occasion – so we decided that it was time to head home. Having spent a wonderful time with Bill and Jill we headed for Tshipise hot springs near Musina. Unfortunately we had a torrid time with the numerous Zimbabwe Police road blocks on the Harare Beit Bridge road who seemed to be out to harass foreigners and in some cases were clearly looking to elicit a bribe (none paid although it cost a small fortune in receipted spot fines!). This spoiled an otherwise pretty hassle free experience of traffic officers throughout the entire journey of over 16000 km’s lasting seventeen and a half weeks.